Well, not exactly lovebirds. Let’s just say that after being married for 28 years, having our first son 24 years ago, and having a house full of four boys for most of those 24 years, it’s safe to say that my wife and I were both wondering what living together as just the two of us might be like again. So why not move to a foreign country and totally test the system!
We started our trip in Lisbon with a quick two nights in an AirBnB just north of Bairro Alto, an area in the central part of Lisbon. The apartment had a nice view of colorful Lisbon rooftops, and was a great home base for a couple of first-timers to the city. First impression: there are some steep hills.
Day one is Lisbon started with a hop-on hop-off bus trip. We took an hour ride out to the outskirts of Lisbon and ended up hopping off around Tower Belem and the Monument of Discoveries at the water front. It was a perfect day out, so walking around the waterfront and going to the top of the Monument of Discoveries gave us some great views of the city.
The evening turned out to be a sporting experience like we had never experienced. Before we headed to Portugal, a good friend reminded me that the UEFA Champions League soccer tournament was going on, and that it was likely that a couple of the Portuguese teams were playing. A quick look at the Google-machine, and I saw that Benfica (one of the two main teams in Lisbon) would be playing Paris-St Germain the first night we were there. I went online and bought two outrageously priced tickets close to the field, and we started our trip with a rapid introduction to European soccer fanaticism. The sold-out stadium was absolutely electric from the moment we walked in. Coming off the weekend before where we saw the University of Wisconsin play at Camp Randall, and then went to Lambeau Field to see the Green Bay Packers play, I will say that the fans at Benfica are un-matched. They don’t need a scoreboard or announcer to tell them to cheer, or what the situation in the game is. They are all engaged, all the time. We were lucky enough to see one of the all-time greats, Lionel Messi, score a goal. And the home team was able to pull out a 1-1 tie against one of the richest soccer clubs in the world. Special night for sure.
Our second day started with a walking food tour. What a great way to see a city, learn a little history, and taste some of the local cuisine. We got to try the cod fish ball (yuk), port wine (yum), gingham (super yum). Walking around, it was crazy to see all the tiled sidewalks and exteriors of buildings everywhere, which seems like is something unique to Portugal.
That night started with a cocktail at the swanky Monkey Mash speakeasy that was just down the street (yeah, no uphill walking) from our place. We had heard about this speakeasy, because it was the front for another bar, The Red Frog, a super speakeasy that had just been rated #40 on the list of the World’s Best 50 Bars. We couldn’t get into the Red Frog, but had a really nice cocktail at Monkey Mash before heading to our dinner two blocks away at Amago. Amago is unique, in that it doesn’t have a website, doesn’t have any employees (just the two owners), and doesn’t even have a sign out front. Is a one room, one table restaurant that seats 10. The experience of Amago is a must for anyone who’s in Lisbon, if you’re lucky enough to get in. Reservations can only be made directly through the owners, and I believe the only way to reach them is through their Instagram account (link provided above). We got SOOO lucky that when I pinged them the day before, that they had just had a cancellation. What an incredible dining experience that I doubt could ever be rivaled. The setting, the atmosphere, the food (10 courses), the owners, the random five other men that we sat with that night, the wines (7 different), the conversation. It was all such a unique and special experience.
That’s a wrap on Lisbon (our first trip there). We’ll finish in Lisbon as well, but more on that later. On to the next adventure…